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The historic center of Madrid, or Centro, is full of surprises. Not only is it a great place to admire beautiful architecture and get to know the roots of the city, but it’s also a great place to witness local life.
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Introduction to the Historic Center of Madrid
The historic center of Madrid is at the geographic and cultural heart of the city. It’s the oldest part of the city and roughly corresponds to the section that was once enclosed by the Walls of Felipe IV. It’s divided into six barrios, or neighborhoods, each divided into smaller informal neighborhoods with their own local flavor.
Exploring the historic center of Madrid is something I’ve yet to complete after several visits. Every time I go back, I dig deeper into each neighborhood and discover something new. I always look forward to visiting the city and learning more. For this post, I’ll mostly cover the area south of Gran Via, which is covered in a separate post, in the barrios of Sol and Palacio.
Barrio de Sol
Barrio de Sol is a fantastic place to begin discovering the historic center of Madrid. It’s at the heart of Centro and is full of interesting places for all interests.
Puerta del Sol
Puerta del Sol is one of themost well-known and busiest places in Madrid. It’s literally the center of the city and is a popular meeting place for locals.
Puerta del Sol was one of the original gates in the 15th century city walls. It developed as an important meeting place in the 17th century. People would gather there to hear news from other parts of Spain and abroad.
Puerta del Sol is still a popular place for protests, demonstrations, and celebrations. I was lucky to witness the celebrations in the square after Spain defeated Germany in a 2010 World Cup semifinal game.
Monument to King Carlos III
There are a few monuments in the center of the square. The biggest is an equestrian statue of King Carlos III, who completed several public works programs in the city in the 18th century. It was unveiled on December 16, 1994.
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree
On the east side is the Bear and the Strawberry Tree (El Oso y el Madroño), which was erected in 1967 as a representation of the coat of arms of Madrid. It was sculpted by Antonio Navarro Santafé (1906-1983). The statue weighs about 22 tons and stands about 4 meters tall.
Royal Post Office
The most prominent building on the square sits on its south side. The Royal Post Office (Real Casa de Correos) opened in 1768 as the royal post office. It was designed by French architect Jacques Marquet (1710-1782). The clock tower on top was inaugurated by Queen Isabel II in 1866. Every New Year’s Eve, the ringing of the bells mark the traditional eating of the 12 Grapes.
The Royal Post Office now houses the offices of the President of Madrid, who is the head of the Autonomous Community of Madrid. Directly to the north of the building is the “kilometer zero” marking for all roads in Spain.
Tío Pepe Sign
On the north side of Puerta del Sol is the iconic Tío Pepe sign, which has been a landmark for several years. It used to sit on top of the building on the east side of the square.
Streets Off Puerta del Sol
A few pedestrian shopping streets lead north to Gran Via. On Calle de Preciados, Calle del Carmen, and Calle de la Montera, you’ll find plenty of shops and restaurants.
A pleasant walk down Calle del Arenal leads west to the Royal Theatre and Plaza de Oriente. Calle de Alcalá leads east to Plaza de Cibeles and Puerta de Alcalá while Calle Mayor leads west to Plaza Mayor, Plaza de la Villa, and the Almudena Cathedral.
Our Lady of Mount Carmel and San Luis Obispo
A couple blocks north of Puerta del Sol on Calle del Carmen is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel and San Luis Obispo (Nuestra Señora del Carmen y San Luis Obispo), which was built between 1611 and 1640. It’s the only surviving part of a former Carmelite convent founded in 1573. The convent was seized and secularized in 1836 as part of the Ecclesiastical Confiscations of Mendizábal. Apparently it’s one of the most well-known and visited in Madrid. I wasn’t able to enter.
Monastery of the Royal Discalced
Just north of Puerta del Sol along Calle de Preciados, you’ll find the Monastery of the Royal Discalced (Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales). It’s housed in the former palace of Charles V, Holy Roman Emperor, and Isabella of Portugal. The order was founded in 1559 by their daughter, Joanna of Austria (1535-1573), and attracted widowed and spinster noblewomen. It quickly became one of the richest convents in Europe. It was turned into a museum in 1960 although it’s still an active monastery.
The convent is located on Plaza Descalzas and Plaza de San Martín. Admission is €8 (as of June 2024) for a one-hour guided visit and it’s open daily except Mondays. It’s well worth visiting because the artwork inside is incredible.
Church of San Ginés
The Church of San Ginés (Iglesia de San Ginés de Arlés) is one of the oldest churches in Madrid. Located on Calle del Arenal, it dates back to at least the 12th century when it was built by Mozarabs (Iberian Christians). It may have existed as far back as the 9th century.
The original church was destroyed and it was rebuilt in 1645. The Mudéjar style bell tower is the only part of the original church to survive.
Inside, it’s not as interesting as you’d expect for such a historic church, but it’s still worth a look if it’s open. Spanish playwright Lope de Vega was married there.
Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor is a historic plaza in the historic center of Madrid just a few blocks west of Puerta del Sol. It was designed by Juan de Herrera (1530-1597) and originally named Plaza del Arrabal. It was built between 1580 and 1619 during the reign of Felipe III.During the Spanish Inquisition, the plaza was used to condemn and execute supposed heretics. Bullfights and football games were also held there.
The plaza measures 129 x 94 meters (423 x 308 feet). There are 9 entrances to the plaza and 237 balconies facing it. The colonnades on the ground floor of each building are filled with restaurants, cafés, and shops.
Statue of Felipe III
In the center of the plaza is a statue of Felipe III. It was originally made in 1616 but wasn’t placed in the plaza until 1848. The statue was designed by Giambologna (1529-1608) and completed by his assistant, Pietro Tacca (1577-1640).
Casa de la Panadería
The most impressive building on Plaza Mayor is the Casa de la Panadería, which translates to Bakery House. The original building was completed in 1619 by Juan Gómez de Mora (1586-1648) but it burned down and was renovated.
In 1672, after the second fire, the building was completely rebuilt in 17 months and frescoes were painted on the façade. The current frescoes were painted in 1992. The Spanish coat of arms of Carlos II is located on the center of the building.
Casa de la Panaderíawas originally used as the city’s main bakery. After 1732, it had several different functions including the headquarters of the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando) from 1745 to 1774 and the Royal Academy of History (Real Academia de la Historia) from 1774 to 1871. After that, it became a municipal building and currently holds the offices of the Madrid Tourist Board. On the ground floor is the Madrid Tourism Center.
Christmas Market at Plaza Mayor
During my visit in December 2016, I was able to see the Christmas market. There were several booths set up selling Christmas ornaments, decorations, souvenirs, and gifts.
Palace of the Holy Cross
About a block southeast of Plaza Mayor you can find the Palace of the Holy Cross (Palacio de Santa Cruz), which was built between 1629 and 1636 under Felipe IV as a prison and courthouse. It was converted into a palace in 1767 and a fire destroyed everything but the façade in 1791. It currently houses the offices of the Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs (Ministerio de Asuntos Exteriores de España). The Palace of the Holy Cross faces both Plaza de la Provincia and Plaza de Santa Cruz.
Holy Cross Church
Finally, a few steps east of the Palace of the Holy Cross is the Holy Cross Church (Iglesia de la Santa Cruz). It sits on the site of the former Convent of St. Thomas Aquinas (Convento de Santo Tomás), founded in 1583 by the Dominicans. The original church was built in 1635 and burned down along with the convent in 1652. It was rebuilt in 1660, but that church also burned down in 1876. The third and current church was built between 1889 and 1902. The tower was the tallest structure in Madrid until the Telefónica Building was built in the 1920s.
Map of Barrio de Sol in the Historic Center of Madrid
Palacio
The barrio of Palacio sits west of Barrio de Sol in the historic center of Madrid. It surrounds the Royal Palace of Madrid, hence the name. Palacio also contains La Latina, which is covered in another post. It’s an informal neighborhood where the oldest sections of the city can be found.
Plaza de Oriente
A good place to start exploring Palacio is Plaza de Oriente, which sits directly east of the Royal Palace. Plaza de Oriente was originally part of the plan for the palace but construction didn’t begin until 1808 under Joseph Bonaparte (José I). Bonaparte ordered the destruction of 60 medieval structures on the site. He was deposed before the plaza was finished, and Isabel IIhired architectNarciso Pascual y Colomer (1808-1870) to complete it in 1844.
On the east side of Plaza de Oriente are some beautiful buildings, some with restaurants and cafés on the ground floor. One of them is the western façade of the Royal Theatre.
Central Gardens
There are three main sections of the plaza. In the center are the Central Gardens (Jardines Centrales).The gardens contain seven flowerbeds bordered by box hedges.
In the center of the Central Gardens is a monument to Felipe IVmade by Pietro Tacca (1577-1640). Tacca started work on the monument in 1634 and it was shipped to Madrid in 1640. It was his last public commission before his death.
A row of statues on the north and south sides of the Central Gardens depict the Gothic kings of Spain. They include 5 Visigoth rulers and 15 early Christian kings of the Reconquista. The limestone statues were originally supposed to adorn the Royal Palace but architects felt they were too heavy. They were carved between 1750 and 1753.
Lepanto Gardens
On the south side of Plaza de Oriente are the Lepanto Gardens (Jardines de Lepanto). These gardens contain several tall trees as well as a monument to Ángel Melgar, a Spanish military hero. The monument was erected in 1911.
Cabo Noval Gardens
On the north side are the Cabo Noval Gardens (Jardines del Cabo Noval) which contain a monument to Luis Noval Ferrao (1887-1909) in the center. Known as Cabo Noval, he was a Spanish soldier who died at the age of 22 under heroic circ*mstances during an ambush in Morocco in 1909. The statue was erected in 1911 under Alfonso XIII.
Royal Theatre
On the east side of Plaza de Oriente is the Royal Theatre (Teatro Real). This opera house took 32 years to build and finally opened in 1850. It closed in 1925 after being damaged during the construction of the metro system and reopened in 1966 as a concert hall.Between 1991 and 1997, it was remodeled to once again host operas, and is one of the most important opera houses in all of Europe.
The main entrance is on the east side of the building at Plaza de Isabel II, which is more commonly known as Plaza de Ópera. Guided tours are available in English daily except Tuesdays at 10:15am for €10 (as of October 2023). An audio guided tour costs €8 (as of October 2023) and is available daily between 10:30am and 1:30pm. Both tour versions take about an hour.
Royal Monastery of the Incarnation
North of Plaza de Oriente is the Royal Monastery of the Incarnation (Real Monasterio de la Encarnación). It was founded by Queen Margaret of Austria, wife of Felipe III, and inaugurated on July 2, 1616, just a few years after her death. Most of the nuns were women from noble families.
Part of the building is open to the public as a museum. Admission is €8 (as of June 2024) for a one-hour guided tour. It’s open daily except Mondays. In front of the building is a statue of Spanish playwright Lope de Vega (1562-1635), one of the country’s literary giants.
Royal Parish of Santiago and San Juan Bautista
About a block south of Plaza de Oriente is the Royal Parish of Santiago and San Juan Bautista (Real Parroquia de Santiago y San Juan Bautista). It was built in the Neoclassical style by architect Juan Antonio Cuervo (1757-1834). Construction started in 1811 and it replaced two churches that had been demolished during the reign of Joseph Bonaparte.
Church of Saint Nicholas
A short walk south is the Church of Saint Nicholas (Iglesia de San Nicolás). Dating back to 1202, it’s one of the oldest churches in historic center of Madrid. The main church building was rebuilt between the 15th and 17th centuries. The bell tower, which was likely built in the 12th century may have originally been a minaret for an Arab mosque.
Plaza de la Villa
Continuing south along Calle Mayor is Plaza de la Villa, which was one of the main plazas in medieval Madrid. It was originally known as Plaza de San Salvador and contains three buildings of important historical value.
Casa de la Villa
The first building is the Casa de la Villa, which was built between 1631 and 1692. From 1692 to 2008, it was the seat of Madrid’s council and city hall. It was designed by Juan Gómez de Mora (1586-1648). The building currently houses a few municipal offices.
Casa de Cisneros
Next is Casa de Cisneros, which was built in 1537 by architect Benito Jiménez de Cisneros. It’s named for his uncle, Cardinal Francisco Jiménez de Cisneros (1436-1517). The building was the birthplace of Álvaro de Figueroa, 1st Count of Romanones (1863-1950), and General Ramón María Narváez, 1st Duke of Valencia (1799-1868), died there. Casa de Cisneros was restored in 1909 when it was integrated into the city hall complex. The main entrance is a block south on Calle del Sacramento and contains the original façade.
Luján House and Tower
The third building is the Luján House and Tower (Casa y Torre de los Lujanes). It’s one of the oldest structures in Madrid, with the tower dating back to at least the beginning of the 15th century. It was purchased by Pedro de Luján, a servant of the king, in 1450. The house was rebuilt by Juan de Luján in 1494. It has been the headquarters of several societies since 1858.
Statue of Don Álvaro de Bazán
Finally, in the center of the plaza is a statue of Don Álvaro de Bazán(1526-1588). He was a legendary admiral who apparently was never defeated. The statue depicts him stepping on an Ottoman flag after the Battle of Lepanto on October 7, 1571. It was dedicated on December 19, 1891, and was sculpted by Mariano Benlliure.
San Miguel Market
San Miguel Market (Mercado de San Miguel) is a popular market in the historic center of Madrid, sitting between Plaza de la Villa and Plaza Mayor. It’s a gourmet market rather than a traditional market.
The marketsits on the former site of the Church of San Miguel de Octoes (Iglesia de San Miguel de Octoes), built in 1202. The church burned down in 1790 and the site was turned into an open market in 1809. The current iron and glass structure dates back to 1916. It was purchased in 2003 by private investors, extensively renovated, and reopened in 2009.
Inside you can find over 30 stalls selling tapas, fish, cheese, fruits, vegetables, coffee, bread, olives, wine, beer, ham, pizza, and more.
Visiting the market can be a great experience, and it’s one of my favorite places in the historic center of Madrid. You can walk through and just browse or spend an hour or two sampling different specialties. You can also shop and take some of the gourmet goods home with you.
Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel
South of Plaza de la Villa is the Pontifical Basilica of San Miguel (Basílica Pontificia de San Miguel). It was commissioned by Cardinal Infante Luis, Count of Chinchón (1727-1785), the Archbishop of Toledo. Believe it or not, he was only 12 years old at the time! The church was designed in the Baroque style, most likely by Italian architect Giacomo Bonavia (1695-1759),and built between 1739 and 1745. Today, it’s the church of the Apostolic Nunciature to the Kingdom of Spain and is administered by priests of the Opus Dei.
Church of the Sacrament
One block west of Plaza de la Villa is the Church of the Sacrament (Iglesia del Sacramento). It was once the church of a Cistercian convent founded in 1615 by Cristóbal Gómez de Sandoval, 1st Duke of Uceda (1581-1624). The church was designed by Juan Gómez de Mora (1586-1648) in 1615 but construction didn’t begin until 1671. It was completed in 1744. The rest of the convent was demolished in 1972. Since 1980 it has been the Military Cathedral of Spain and the seat of the Military Archbishop of Spain.
Palace of the Duke of Uceda
Next to the Church of the Sacramentis the Palace of the Duke of Uceda (Palacio del Duque de Uceda). It was commissioned by Cristóbal Gómez de Sandoval,an important minister of King Felipe III. The palace was built between 1608 and 1613 and was designed by architect Francisco de Mora (c. 1553-1610). but was judged too extravagant for a noble.
After the duke fell out of favor with the king, the Spanish crown took it over. It housed Mariana of Austria (1634-1696), the mother of Carlos II, until she died there on May 16, 1696. Felipe V transferred many royal offices to the building in 1701 and renamed it the Palace of the Councils (Palacio de los Concejos). It has been the home of the Council of State (Consejo de Estado) and Captaincy General (Capitanía General) since the 19th century.
Fountain of Diana the Hunter
Winding down the street south of the Church of the Sacrament is Plaza de la Cruz Verde, which is the location of the Fountain of Diana the Hunter(Fuente de Diana Cazadora). It was inaugurated in 1850.
Arab Walls of Madrid
The most important surviving section of the Arab Walls (Muralla Árabe), the old Muslim walls of the city, sit just outside the entrance to the crypt of the Almudena Cathedral.
The Arab Walls are likely the oldest existing structures in the historic center of Madrid. They were built in the 9th century to fortify the city, known as Mayrit at the time. The total length was roughly 980 meters (3,220 feet), enclosing an area of about 4 hectares (9.9 acres). There was a moat outside the eastern section, and there were several watchtowers along with three gates.
The walls make up a section of Emir Mohamed I Park (Parque del Emir Mohamed I). It’s named for Muhammad I of Córdoba, who’s credited with founding Madrid. The park has always been closed when I walked by, but you can easily see the walls and park from the outside. You can also get excellent views of the park from the rooftop terrace of the Almudena Cathedral.
Athens Park
West of the Arab Walls is Athens Park (Parque de Atenas), which I briefly walked through to get to the Segovia Bridge. It’s a green space south of the Moorish Camp. The plot that makes up the park today was purchased by Felipe II in 1590 to hold fairs and tournaments between knights. From the 18th through 19th century, it was a barren sandy area until trees were planted. It officially became a city park in 1971 and was renovated between 2003 to 2011.
Segovia Bridge
the Segovia Bridge (Puente de Segovia). This bridge was built between 1582 and 1584 under King Felipe II. It was designed by Juan de Herrera (1530-1597) and has nine spans over the Manzanares River (Río Manzanares).
Cuesta de los Ciegos
Finally, just south of Emir Mohamed I Park is the Cuesta de los Ciegos, which literally translates to the Slope of the Blind. It’s a nice green space with a fountain and stairway leading up to La Latina. The name comes from the fact that blind musicians used to inhabit the area. The fountain was installed in 1932, and there are 254 steps built in the early 20th century. The steps have appeared in several Spanish films.
